How to Read an Auction Damage Report and Avoid Costly Mistakes

An auction listing packs a lot of information into a few short fields. Learning to read them is the difference between a great-value import and an expensive mistake. Here's how to interpret the most important ones.

Primary and secondary damage

Every lot lists a primary damage (the main reported damage) and often a secondary damage. "Front end" plus "side" is very different from "minor dents/scratches." Pay special attention to structural words like frame, rollover, flood/water, and burn — these are the costliest and riskiest to repair.

Run and drive status

Some lots are marked "Run & Drive", meaning the auction confirmed the engine starts and the car moves under its own power at the yard. This is reassuring but not a mechanical guarantee. A lot with no run-and-drive flag may still be fine — or may have engine/transmission issues. Price accordingly.

Airbag deployment

Deployed airbags signal a meaningful impact and add real cost — airbags, sensors, and sometimes the dashboard all need replacement. Factor this into your repair budget.

Odometer status

Look for the odometer brand: Actual, Not Actual, or Exempt. "Not Actual" means the mileage can't be trusted, which hurts value. "Exempt" is normal for older cars where mileage reporting isn't required.

Keys and title-in-hand

Check whether the lot includes keys and whether the title is already in hand or still pending. A pending title can delay your shipment.

Use the photos as evidence

Zoom into every photo. Look at panel gaps, tire condition, the engine bay, and the interior. Cross-check what you see against the stated damage — if they don't match, ask for a condition report before bidding.

Want a second opinion on a lot? Send us the lot number and we'll walk through the report with you before you bid.